Each table comes with an instruction sheet. If it was not included in the carton, or it has been misplaced, please download instructions here
The effects of ultra violet light, pollution, dirt, grime and salt deposits can all accumulate on your powder coated surface over time. To extend the effective life of powder coatings a very simple regular maintenance program should be implemented for the removal of any residues.
As a general rule, cleaning should take place every six months. However, in areas where pollutants are more prevalent, especially in coastal or industrial regions, a cleaning program should be carried out on a more frequent basis (i.e. every one to two months).
To clean your powder coated surface:
- Carefully remove any loose deposits with a wet sponge.
- Use a soft brush (non-abrasive) or cloth, and a mild household detergent solution to remove dust, salt and other deposits.
- Rinse off thoroughly with fresh clean water.
Detergents that recommend the use of gloves when handling should be avoided as this is a good indication that the detergent in harsh and, therefore, unsuitable for cleaning your powder coating.
Although some strong solvents are recommended for removing sealants or other building residues, these may be harmful to the extended life of the powder coated surface and should also be avoided as the damage may not be visible immediately and may take up to twelve months to appear.
Warranty claims due to damage from solvents (including salt air and/or water) will not be considered.
In addition to above, another thing to check if you are getting pitting or bubbling of the powdercoat is if there is any electrical current leakage in the van walls. This will cause electrolysis and degradation of the aluminium components. There could be minor leakage from a loose connection to marker lights to the van wall. Or an earthing problem.
Warranty claims due to damage from electrolysis due to electrical current leakage will also not be considered.
Yes. Please contact us prior to arrange a time. We are a small company and sometimes are not here. Best to call 0400 506 000
No, however it is advised to use framework support if available.
Yes. The lifestyletable has been successfully fitted to fibreglass walled vans such as Jaycos, A’vans & Geists. The lifestyletable has it’s own wall frame for structural strength and if installed with the supplied aluminium peel rivets and a quality construction silicone like Sikaflex, you will find that the lifestyletable will be quite secure. Some customers have put a bolt all the way through the wall into the inside of the caravan with a spreader plate strategically hidden behind a cupboard or settee cushion for added security. You are welcome to do this if you wish as every van is different. We have not found any issues with installation using just the peel rivets and sikaflex on fibreglass walled vans as yet.
Photo below shows the activated aluminium peel rivet inside the fibreglass composite
Ask at your local fastener specialist. Or replacement parts are available from us.
Yes. The standard colours are Interpon Bright White MA037A and Dulux Satin Black 27219268. We do have some 450×800 tables available in a Mill Finish which can be painted to whatever colour you desire. We do not however offer a painting service.
The lifestyletable™ best suits flat surfaces. For curved walls, pack out top and bottom rails of the frame to make the frame vertical. Use a durable packer, like a hard rubber or an aluminium block. On Motorhomes with steel sides we suggest that you use stainless steel screws and not use the supplied aluminium rivets. Also it might be best not to seal the table to the wall or seal the back panel to the table. Just so that any dirt and water does not collect between the table and the wall.
The Lifestyletable™ is proudly designed and made in Melbourne Australia and is 100% Australian owned and operated.
Yes. If you are a moderately handy person and possess the appropriate tools. Do take care with hidden electric wiring! If in doubt, you can seek the assistance of a local caravan repairer.
Call us on 0400 506 000 to arrange for replacement keys
For a professional finish, please refer to the reverse side of the instruction sheet
A warm damp cloth with diluted dishwashing liquid. Do not use abrasive or harsh chemical products.
Simple DIY process
Tools and equipment: knife, Philips head screwdriver, power drill, 3.5mm diameter drill bit (suitable for aluminium), tape measure, pencil, 6g countersunk wood screws (suggest 16mm long for 3mm thick ceiling plywood panels), electronic stud finder (optional), safety glasses/goggles (highly recommended)
Step 1: Open the carton with the knife taking care not to damage the contents.
Step 2: Work out where you are going to position the Sky Tracks profiles. The final position depends on how you want the Storage Bags to hang. Assemble a Storage Bag, grab some Hinged Hooks and do a test run.
Option 1 is to position the Sky Tracks profile as close to the tent side wall as possible then hang the Storage Bag from the rear side handles. The rear of the Storage Bag is then supported by the tent side wall.
Option 2 is to have the Storage Bag hang from the centre handles away from the tent side walls.
Make a small pencil mark noting the centre of Hinged Hook position. This will be the position of centre of the Sky Tracks profile.
Step 3: Determine whether there are any timber beams behind the ceiling panel. If there are joins in the ceiling panels then there is a good chance that there is a beam behind the join. Else you can do the “knock” with your knuckle test to hear if the area behind the panel sounds hollow or use an electronic stud finder like this one if you want. http://www.bunnings.com.au/stanley-intellisensor-stud-sensor_p5663710
Step 4: Mark the hole positions. Place the Sky Tracks profile into position and using the pencil, mark the profile where the timber beam is located. Remove the profile and mark for holes about 30mm in from both ends (gives clearance for the End Caps) and then drill 1 hole for every 200-300mm.
Step 5: Drill holes into profile (not the ceiling). Using a 3.5mm diameter drill bit, drill the hole from the front of the profile. There is a small drill start groove in the bottom of the gap. Watch out for the aluminium swarf, it is sharp and can cut your fingers/feet/eyes. Use a sacrificial backing board so you don’t damage the kitchen bench, or better still, do it outside.
Step 6: Screw profile into place. Do not drill holes into the ceiling. Using the philips head screwdriver, screw the 6g countersunk screw through the drilled hole in the Sky Tracks profile and into the ceiling panel. Do not over tighten the screw in case you strip the timber with the screw thread.
Step 7: Install the Hinged Hooks. Loosen off the screws in the Hinge Hooks so that they can slide into the Sky Tracks profile. Slide into position and lock into place using the screws.
Step 8: Install the End Caps. Loosen off the screws in each End Cap and slide into the ends of the Sky Tracks profile and lock in place using the screws.
The bags are intended to be packed with clothing, large bulky food and other similar lightweight, but high volume items.Not bowling balls, encyclopedia or the like.
Depends on the number of screws and what you are screwing into. We are hesitant to place exact numbers as we do not know the condition of your ceiling panel or the roof lifting mechanism. As a test, try putting a 6g screw into an unseen part of the ceiling and see how well it holds.
We have 4 Storage Bags on one side of our old van filled with clothing. We have not seen any issues, as we have kept the weights reasonable. Again, it depends on the condition of the roof and the roof lifting mechanism.
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